Bunny ears cactus care

Cacti are the perfect plant for the novice gardener. They are also the perfect specimen for a negligent gardener. The bunny ears cactus plant, also called angel's-wings, bunny cactus or polka-dot cactus, has ease of care combined with an original appearance. The thick pads of this plant are adorned with fuzzy glochids, or short bristles, that resemble the fur of rabbits and grow in pairs of ears. Even a beginner can learn to grow bunny-eared cacti and enjoy the plant's smooth appearance without much of the fuss typical of indoor plants.

Bunny ears cactus information

Bunny ears cactus (Opuntia microdasys) originated in Mexico and is an inhabitant of arid and desert areas. Growing bunny ears cacti is as simple as mimicking their native regional conditions. So if you have a dry, low-humidity home and lots of sun exposure, the bunny ears cactus plant might be the perfect plant for you.

Bunny ears form a plant 2 to 3 feet tall with a spread of 4 to 5 feet in their natural habitat. At home, it is a slow-growing plant that will likely reach 2 feet in height and be about the same width. It is an excellent container plant with 3- to 6-inch-long pads, which start out pinkish red and turn greener.

An interesting bit of information about bunny ears cactus is that it does not develop thorns. In its place, it grows glochids, which are small whitish-brown spines. These still have the ability to bite, so caution is advised when handling the cactus. If you're lucky, the plant can produce 2-inch-wide creamy yellow flowers in summer, followed by globular purple fruits.

Propagation

As with most succulents, you can start growing new bunny ears cactus plants with a pad pulled from the cactus. Be very careful when removing a leaf because glochids come off easily and are very difficult to remove from the skin.

Wear thick gloves or newspaper to pick up the pad. Allow the callus to finish for a few days and then insert into the cactus soil.

Soil and Container

Use a good cactus mix to grow bunny ears cactus, or make your own with 40% potting soil, 40% sand, and 20% peat. The pad usually takes root within a few weeks.

Bunny ears cactus requires a well-drained container for indoor use. An unglazed clay pot allows excess moisture to evaporate, which is one of the main causes of death for these plants. They can also grow outdoors, but they are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 9 through 11.

Irrigation

These plants are a gardener's dream for their low maintenance and interesting appearance. Water can be the cause of death of the plant but it needs constant moisture throughout the growing season. Water the plant when the first inch of the soil is dry. Allow the water to drain from the pot and wipe off any excess from the saucer. During the fall and winter, water lightly every 3-4 weeks.

Fertilization

Fertilize the plant in any other water period during the spring and summer with a diluted houseplant or cactus food formula.

Pest & Disease Control

Occasionally the plant will be plagued by pests such as mealy bugs and scale insects. Combat these with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol.

Bunny ears cactus should be replanted every 1 to 2 years. Wait at least a week after transplanting to water the plant. In addition to these steps, bunny ears cactus care is limited and the plant should reward you with its abundant pads and interesting features for years to come.

Euphorbia lactea cristata care

Euphorbia lactea cristata is decorative plant, which looks like a cactus which is very noticeable due to its irregular fan-shaped multiple branches.

Common Names

The plant is known under the most popular names such as Crested Plant, Crested Candelabra Plant, Euphorbia cristata, Euphorbia crestada or coral cactus.

Geographical distribution

This cacti-like species is native to the tropical areas of Asia, more specifically, India and Sri Lanka.

Description

It’s a succulent with crested and undulating stems. The term Cristata, in botany, represents a wavy growth that occurs not only in cacti and succulents, but is caused by a mutation, it has a crest shape with intricately undulating fan-shaped branches, which form a serpentine crest or crowded group.

The most common ridge shape is dark green attractively marked with silver-grey zigzag patterns. Currently, this plant is available in a large number of varied and picturesque cultivars ranging in color from white to yellow, pink, purple and green.

There are also the standard species, without crest, with flattened stems on three sides, which look like a candelabrum that can easily reach a height of up to 5 meters. They are leafless but have black spines on parts of their undulating ribs. They do not usually bloom. This Euphorbia is often grafted since it by itself is not capable of performing the chlorophyll function and needs a foot that does, to survive.

Conditions for its development

Euphorbias are very slow growing but easy to grow. They are usually used in pots, as indoor plants or on terraces, if the weather allows it, they are suitable for outdoors cactus and succulent gardens.

Temperature

It should be grown in sun and warm temperature.  It can tolerate full summer sun. But  Euphorbia lactea cristata can also be kept in semi-shade.

Watering

Irrigation control is important in Euphorbia’s, in fact, they die more from excessive care and watering. They need light soil with good drainage. They resist drought very well, but unlike most succulents, Euphorbia lactea cristata does not handle long periods of drought well. It may need weekly watering during the summer. Be careful not to cause flooding. Water deeply when the substrate is dry, but do not leave the plant sitting in moist soil for a long time, which can cause root rot. The container must consist of multiple holes for ensuring good drainage.

Substrate

They are not particularly demanding regarding the pH of the substrate, neutral or slightly acidic pH is okay. But as told earlier, they do not tolerate waterlogged soil. We must add a little organic component or fertilizer to the planting soil. The substrate can be any one of those commercialized for cacti.

The substrate should be one-third humus, one-third fine soil and the rest coarse-grained sand. Do not apply peat, which may be too acidic in pH.

Fertilization

It will be sufficient to fertilize it once in a month, with some mineral fertilizer used for cacti. The best time for fertilizing the pant is in spring and summer.

If you grow them in pots or outdoors with poor soils, feed them monthly with a medium-strength fertilizer.

Re-potting

The re-potting is done in the spring, but given its slow growth, it is done every long period. No pruning is necessary.

Propagation

Propagation can be done from seed, but it can be difficult to germinate or even to find. Generally, the Euphorbia lactea cristata is propagated by cuttings or grafts. The variegated forms are difficult to cultivate on their own roots and are generally grafted for convenience on a foot of Euphorbia canariensis, Euphorbia resinífera or Euphorbia neriifolia.

The key to proper propagation is warmth and good air circulation. Although not necessary, these cuttings could be dipped in rooting hormone and then left for a period of 3 to 4weeks until they form roots. Then proceed to plant them. This can be tricky, due to the sap it exudes. The sap or latex is toxic and irritating and can affect, inflaming the mucous membranes and skin, if they come into contact.

Latex care

As with all other Euphorbias when a plant is damaged, it exudes a thick, milky, white sap known as latex. The milky sap of Euphorbia serves as protection against predators and to close wounds. This latex is poisonous and irritating and particularly dangerous for the eyes, skin, and mucous membranes. So pay close attention so that it does not come into contact with your eyes or mouth. If the latex comes in contact with the skin, it should be washed immediately with water, as it is no longer soluble in water, when it dries. In this case, use fat solutions or emulsions such as milk or skin cream. In case of contact with eyes or mucous membranes, a doctor should be consulted. Sensitive people can even react to latex vapors, so it is also necessary to ensure adequate ventilation.

Tips for handling

• Use gloves to handle the plant in transplanting and cutting processes.
• Wear protective glasses, thus avoiding splashes of latex on eyes and mucous membranes and skin. Contact with the eyes can cause blindness.
• Provide good ventilation in the work area with the plant, in order to avoid latex vapors.
• Ingestion or even inhalation of latex and its vapors can cause nausea and vomiting.
• Keep Euphorbia out of the reach of children.

Plagues and diseases

The main disease that can affect it is the rotting of the roots due to excess watering, The waterlogging generates fungi that can kill the plant. If the cristata stem or pad suddenly withers or turns pale green, this usually indicates a fungal attack is caused by waterlogging.  So ensure good water drainage for avoiding such devastating circumstance.

If you observe the presence of the mealybug infestation, proceed to wash carefully with a damp cloth, on the pest. Observe that the roots are not affected by the mealybug infestation. If it is, then wash well and apply insecticide or prune severely damaged parts and change the substrate and to avoid future outbreaks of the pest. They can occur in the folds of the ridge. They are sap-sucking insects and can attract fungi. If washing is not enough, proceed with a commercial insecticide for this purpose and proceed to treat the plant.

Crown of thorns care

 

The Euphorbia milii gets its common name crown of thorns or Christ thorn plant because there is the legend that this was the plant that was used for making the Christ’s  crown of thorns. This plant, from Madagascar, is a shrub that reaches, and even exceeds heights of 1 meter and blooms the red or pink flowers, which are very showy.

 It is a very hardy succulent plant that can flourish throughout the year in the right climate and conditions. If you want to learn more about how to care for the crown of Christ plant, keep reading us in this article where you will find a guide to care for the crown of thorns plant.

Climate for the crown of thorns

Due to its original tropical habitat, this plant cannot withstand low temperatures or exceptionally hot and dry summers. The crown of thorns plant should ideally be kept at temperatures between 20ºC and 35ºC.

Cold winters can do a lot of damage or even kill it, never exposing it to temperatures below 5 ºC, not even occasionally.

Location and light for the crown of thorns

Should I place the crown of thorns plant under sun or shade? The answer is definitely the first option. The Euphorbia milii better develops and produces more flowers when it is exposed to full sun, even in warm climates. So, if you want to enjoy the flower of the crown of thorns, find it as sunny a location as possible.

It may happen that, if your crown of thorns was indoors and you move it to a place in full sun, it suffers from burns on some leaves due to lack of habit. However, in a few days or weeks the plant will have adapted without any problem and will recover quickly.

Substrate for the crown of thorns

The crown of thorns is not demanding with its substrate other than in one characteristic: the drainage. The plant does not need a soil that is very rich in nutrients, but it does need a substrate that does not retain water or moisture for too long .

If you plant in a garden, find an area where the water does not stagnate when you water. If you grow it in a pot, prepare a mixture with peat moss and river sand or coconut fiber, which lighten and improve the drainage capacity. A little bit of vermiculite and perlite will also help.

Watering the crown of thorns

The crown of thorns is a very rustic species in terms of drought resistance. It can withstand long seasons without watering and is, in fact, grateful to have them. Water your Euhprobia milii only when the substrate has completely dried, even just beyond the top layer. Then apply an abundant watering to the plant, although always without flooding it, a detail for which it is so important that your crown of thorns have the best drainage soil possible.

If you are growing your thorn in a pot, make sure the pot has drainage holes. If you put a plate underneath, always empty it about 20 minutes after watering so that it does not reabsorb the water and suffers from puddling.

In winter, lessen your watering even more, especially if the temperature is low, since the humidity in the ground can do you a lot of damage in conjunction with the cold.

Fertilizer for the crown of thorns plant

This plant does not need fertilizer although, like all plants, a small dose can help with flowering. You can use specific fertilizer for succulents well diluted in water. It is very important that it does not contain boron.

Do not apply too much and, if you are not clear about the amounts, in this case it is better to be lacking than excess: if you fertilize it too much it will not flower.

Pruning the crown of thorns

The plant does not require pruning either, although if you want to control its growth and shape, the best time to do it is in summer .

How to prune the crown of thorns has no secret: sterilize the tools and cut the parts that have grown too much. After the summer, in autumn, you can remove the withered leaves and branches so that in the next season the euphorbia stimulates its growth.

Wear thick gloves and watch out for their spines and latex, which is irritating. In fact, wearing safety glasses can also save you annoyance with small splashes.

How to propagate the crown of thorns

The seeds of the crown of thorns are perfectly valid for the propagation of the plant, but it is more common to multiply it by cuttings, since it is also very simple and much faster.

1. To propagate by cuttings, cut a stem or a section of the center stem in the growing season.
2. Store on absorbent paper for 3 days to let the cut dry.
3. After this time, moisten the area of ​​the cut and plant the cuttings of the crown of thorns plant in seedlings or small pots.
4. Place them in a warm and well-lit area but without direct sunlight. You can use homemade or specific rooting before planting them, which will help an even faster and optimal adaptation.
5. Keep the substrate slightly moist for the first few weeks, until the cutting takes root, and after a month, move it to its final location, either a large pot or the ground.

Why is my crown of thorns plant not blooming

If your crown of thorns plant does not give flowers, it can be mainly due to two main reasons: it is not receiving enough light or it is too cold. Move your euphorbia to a warmer and brighter location, avoiding excessive proximity to air conditioners, heaters, or other artificial heat sources.

It is a very hardy succulent plant that can flourish throughout the year in the right climate and conditions. If you want to learn more about how to care for the crown of Christ plant, keep reading us in this article where you will find a guide to care for the crown of thorns plant.

Cacti and their indoor care

Cacti have become one of the most versatile plants to add to any room. Although an habitant of the desert, their ability to purify the air has made them the perfect plant for any room.

And although it is true that cacti usually require less care than other species of plants, you have to take several things into account to care for and keep them healthy in closed spaces. Here we will explain everything you need to know:

Choosing the pot

It is always advisable to choose a varnished clay pot, since being made of clay they will allow the evaporation of the water in less time and the varnish will prevent the accumulation of salts that can be harmful to the plant in the long term.

Regarding the size, it is advisable to start with a pot that is at least 10 centimeters in diameter and about 12 inches deep. It is also extremely important that you have one centimeter holes in the bottom for proper drainage.

The substrate

Unlike other species, cacti require substrates that offer greater drainage capacity; This is why it is common for us to see special substrates for cacti. We only have to mix equal parts of black sand and pearl to fill the pot of our cactus, this mixture will prevent the water from stagnating in the pot and rotting our cactus.

Irrigation

Usually, it is advisable to do it once a week in spring and summer and once every fortnight in autumn and winter. For the watering method, it is best to use a spray bottle.

As for water, the ideal is to use rainwater. But living in an area with low rainfall, we can use tap water. In such a case we just have to let it rest for one night to avoid problems with the pH.

Location

Most varieties of cactus requires several hours of sun a day to grow, that is why it is ideal to place them in a window which is exposed to the sun. However , excessive exposure can also be harmful, if we notice that the cactus turns yellowish or begins to bleach, we must place it in an area with less light exposure.

In addition to light, we must also take humidity into account . Bathrooms and kitchens are excellent for cacti as they are able to absorb moisture from the air.

Fertilizers

Ideally, the fertilizer for cacti will be one balanced in equal parts of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus and the frequency of application will depend on the size of our cactus. If we want to stimulate flowering the following spring, we will have to start fertilizing once every two weeks from the beginning of autumn and if we want to stimulate the growth of the plant it is advisable to use fertilizers from the bud of the first flowers in the spring.

Re-potting

Generally, when caring for a cactus indoors, there are three reasons why we will have to re-pot:

1. The cactus has exceeded the size of the pot.
2. The roots are concentrated in the drainage of the pot.
3. The necessity to change the substrate.

Although transplanting a cactus is a simple process, it is necessary to do it carefully to avoid damage to the health of the plant.